AAL Cosmetic Testing - AAL tests various cosmetics and personal care products. We have procedures for sunscreens, lip balms, sunless tanning mists, body lotions, lipsticks, foundations, eye color (shadow and mascara), moisturizers, antidandruff shampoos, oral care, astringents, fragrances, and many others.

We test by FDA approved standards, and by foreign standards when applicable for export.

At AAL, Inc. the cosmetic analysis is one of our primary areas of expertise. Our cosmetic scientists are fully staffed for seven days of operation. 90% of our analyses are performed on a daily basis. Our high quality instruments such as high performance liquid chromatography, gas chromatogram, and ion-chromatography are used for assay and purity of active ingredients.

Products that are cosmetics but are also intended to treat or prevent disease, or otherwise affect the structure or functions of the human body, are also considered as OTC (over-the-counter) and must comply with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of the law. Examples of products which are drugs as well as cosmetics are anti-cavity toothpastes (e.g., "fluoride" toothpastes), hormone creams, suntan or sunscreen preparations intended to protect against sunburn, antiperspirants that are also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos.

FDA/IAS Booklet 1992 Cosmetic Handbook

List of our Cosmetics Analytical Services:

Below is a summary of a few of our cosmetic services:


Sunscreen-Suntan Products Testing
AAL, Inc. performs complete chemical testing on raw material and the finished product of sunscreen samples.

Procedure

The raw material analysis of sunscreen ingredients includes active and etcipient chemicals. AAL analyzes these ingredients according to USP monograph. Identification is done by:

  • FTIR fingerprint
  • Ultra-violet
  • Visible spectrometry scans
  • Limit test

Which locates such impurities as:

o  Lead

o  Mercury

o  Arsenics

The Purity and Assay tests can also be completed by gas chromatography (GC) and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

The finished products of over-the-counter sunscreen (i.e. SPF-4 to SPF-30+) active content analysis are performed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). We have validated testing procedures for sunscreen analysis of active chemicals for up to seven actives.


click for enlarged version

Zinc oxide and Titanium Dioxide utilizes modified FDA United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) method.


All sunscreen testing SPF products are performed in compliance to GMP requirements and results are often released within five to seven working days.

Permitted Sunscreen Active Ingredients (maximum concentrations)
Per FDA Sunscreen Monograph:

 
FDA Max Spec.
Method
Aminobenzoic Acid
15%
HPLC
Avobenzone
3%
HPLC / GC
Cinoxate
3%
HPLC / GC
Dioxybenzone
3%
HPLC
Homosalate
15%
HPLC / GC
Menthyl Anthranilate
5%
HPLC / GC
Octocrylene
10%
HPLC
Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamtate)
7.5%
HPLC / GC
Octisalate (Octyl Salicylate)
5%
HPLC
Oxybenzone
6%
HPLC
Padimate O
8%
HPLC
Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid
4%
HPLC
Sulisobenzone
10%
HPLC
Titanium Dioxide
25%
USP Titration
Trolamine Salicylate
12%
HPLC
Zinc Oxide
25%
USP Titration

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Preservative and Additive Analysis

AAL's cosmetics scientists can analyze most of the additives (color, artificial sweetener, etc.) and preservative ingredients listed by USP monograph and FDA Cosmetics Handbook. Computerized automated HPLC and GC perform all chemical testing.

Chemical analysis is conducted under GMP requirements and complies with USP Chromatography system suitability requirements.

Preservative Testing
(BHT, BHQ, TBHQ, Parabens)

Additive Testing
(Polysorbate, Surfactant)

Active purity content

Color additives FD&C red, yellow, blue, green

Preservative efficacy or microbial 30-day challenges

Formaldehyde content
(Japan Export Testing)

Below is a list of the approved preservatives, color additives, and sweetener additives commonly used in cosmetics:

Partial List of the Approved Preservatives (USP/NF grade)
Commonly Used in Cosmetics:

   
Method

Butyl Parabens

0.05-0.1%
HPLC

Diazolidinyl Urea

0.1-0.3%
HPLC

DMDM Hydantoin

0.2-0.6%
HPLC

Ethyl Paraben

0.8-0.1%
HPLC

Imidazolidnyl Urea

0.1-0.5%
HPLC

Isobutyl Paraben Sodium Methyl Paraben

0.05-0.2%
HPLC

Kathon cG (Methylchloroisothiazolone, and Methyllisothiazolone)

max 0.1%
HPLC

Methyl Paraben

0.1-0.3%
HPLC

Methylisothiazolinone

max 0.02%
HPLC

Phenoxy ethanol

0.3-0.5%
HPLC

Propyl Paraben

0.01-0.1%>
HPLC

Quaternium-15 (dowicil 200)

max 0.2%
Redox - Titration

Sodium Benzoate

HPLC

Tricarnilide

HPLC

Triclosan

.0.1-0.4%
HPLC

Sweetener Additives:

 
Method

Acesulfame

HPLC

Aspartame

HPLC

Mannitol

HPLC / IC

Saccharin

HPLC

Sorbitol

HPLC / IC

Xylitol

HPLC / IC

Lice and insectecide

 
Method

Pyrethin not more than 0.33%

GC

Piperonyl butoxide 0.33%

GC

Mosquito and Insect Repellent

 
Method

DEET and related toulamides

HPLC


Partial list of Color Additives

(Analyzed By Chromatographic HPLC and TLC Instrumentation):

 
Method

D&C green #5

TLC

D&C red 22

TLC

D&C red 28

TLC

FD&C blue #1

TLC

FD&C green #3

TLC

FD&C green #6

TLC

FD&C red #3

TLC

FD&C red #4

TLC

FD&C red 40

TLC

FD&C yellow #10

TLC

FD&C yellow #5

TLC

List of Color Additives Not Permitted in Japan Export:

D&C Red No. 6

D&C Red No. 19

D&C Red No. 21

D&C Red No. 27

D&C Red No. 33

FD&C Red No. 40

D&C Orange No. 5

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Antioxidants:

Analysis

AAL's cosmetic lab has validated methods, such as computerized automated HPLC, for analysis of most of the antioxidant ingredients. AAL also has methods that analyze trace contents of antioxidants for the cleaning validation study.

Partial List of the Natural and Synthetic Antioxidants Commonly Used in Cosmetics:

 
Method

Ascorbic Acid as Vitamin C

HPLC

Butylated Hydroxy Anisole (BHA)

HPLC

Butylated Hydroxy Toluene (BHT)

HPLC

Coenzymes Q10 (co-Q10)

HPLC

Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Beta Carotene (Vitamin A)

HPLC

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

HPLC

Trisodium and tetra sodium edetate (EDTA)

HPLC


Moisturizer, Emulsifier, Surfactant, Stabilizer

Partial List of the Chemicals Commonly Used as Moisturizers, Emulsifiers and Other Functions:

 
Method

Allantoin

GC

Anionic, Cationic, Non Ionic Surfactants

GC

Cetyl Alcohol (Fatty Alcohol)

GC

Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone

FTIR / GC

Glyceride, and Triglycerides

GC

Isopropyl Lanolate, Myristate, and Palmitate

GC

Lanolin and Lanolin Alcohols and Oils (skin and hair conditioners)

GC

Octyl Dodecanol-skin conditioner

GC

Oleic Acid (olive oil)

GC

Panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative)--hair conditioner (B5)

GC

Polysorbate or Tween 40, 60 and 80

Spectrometer / TLC

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

GC

Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol

GC


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Skin Therapeutic Products

AAL analyzes chemicals that function to improve the skin such as acne creams, astringents, pore cleaners, anti pimple agents, anti-rash creams, and antibacterial lotions, all of which are sold as over-the-counter.

Analysis

AAL's cosmetic lab has validated methods for analysis of the active compounds of skin therapeutic products. The chromatographic methods for assay are utilized for automated HPLC and HPGC.


Partial List of the chemicals commonly used for skin therapy:

 
Method

Alpha Hydroxy

HPLC

Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Lactic Acid, and Glycolic Acid

GC

Allantoin

HPLC

Benzocaine

HPLC

Benzoyl Peroxide

HPLC

Camphor

GC

Capsaicin

HPLC

Hydrocortisone

HPLC

Ethyl Alcohol

GC

Hydroquinone

HPLC

Lidocaine

HPLC

Menthol

GC

Methyl Salicylate

GC

Promazine HCL

HPLC

Resorcinol

HPLC

Salicylic Acid

HPLC

Sulfur

Barium Sulfate

Tetracaine

HPLC

Thymol

GC

Zinc Oxide

Titration

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Antidandruff Shampoo

Dandruff is due to small scales of dead skin forming on the scalp, and is a variation of the normal process of scalp growth and regeneration. It is also associated with scalp overgrowth by Malassezia Furfur yeast, and thought to be a mild form of seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Analysis

The active chemicals of raw material and finished products are analyzed by instrumentation such as HPLC, GC, and USP monograph.

Partial List of the chemicals commonly used:

 
Method

Clotrimazole

HPLC

Coal Tar

HPLC

Ketoconazole

HPLC

Menthol

GC

Salicylic Acid

HPLC

Selenium Sulfide

Titration

Zinc Pyrithion

Titration / HPLC


Antiperspirant/Deodorant

The antiperspirant active ingredients are analyzed according to USP method.

Partial list of the chemicals commonly used:

 
Method

Aluminum Chlorohydrate

USP

Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate

USP

Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY

USP

Sodium Bicarbonate

USP / Titration

Triclosan

HPLC


Dental Care Products Testing

AAL analyzes dental care products such as oral rinses, oral gel, dental bleach, anti-cavity toothpastes, and mouth sprays.

List of the oral care products that we test:

 
Method

Benzocaine

HPLC

Benzyl Alcohol

GC / HPLC

Calcium Peroxide

Titration

Carbamide Peroxide

HPLC

Cetyl Pyrithnium Chloride

HPLC

Chlorhexidine Gluconate

HPLC

Chlorine Dioxide

Titration

Sodium Fluoride

ISE

Sodium Monofluorophosphate

ISE / Titration

Hydrogen Peroxide

USP Titration

Zinc Chloride

USP

Zinc Gluconate

USP

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OTC Antibacterial Antibiotic/Hygiene Care

 
Method

Benzalkonium Chloride

HPLC

Benzyl Alcohol

GC / HPLC

Butoconazole Nitrate

HPLC

Clotrimazole

HPLC

Micronazole Nitrate

HPLC

Neomycin Sulfate

HPLC

Polymyxin-B Sulfate

HP

Tolnaftate

HPLC

Triconazole

HPLC

Zinc Bacitracin

HPLC

Povidone-Iodine not more than  1%

USP Titration

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Email info@adamsonlab.com
Adamson Analytical Laboratories, Inc
Business hours: Monday-Friday; 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM
TELEPHONE : (951) 549-9657
FAX : (951) 549-9659