

AAL Cosmetic Testing - AAL tests various cosmetics and personal care products. We have procedures for sunscreens, lip balms, sunless tanning mists, body lotions, lipsticks, foundations, eye color (shadow and mascara), moisturizers, antidandruff shampoos, oral care, astringents, fragrances, and many others.
We test by FDA approved standards, and by foreign standards when applicable for export.
At AAL, Inc. the cosmetic analysis is one of our primary areas of expertise. Our cosmetic scientists are fully staffed for seven days of operation. 90% of our analyses are performed on a daily basis. Our high quality instruments such as high performance liquid chromatography, gas chromatogram, and ion-chromatography are used for assay and purity of active ingredients.
Products that are cosmetics but are also intended to treat or prevent disease, or otherwise affect the structure or functions of the human body, are also considered as OTC (over-the-counter) and must comply with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of the law. Examples of products which are drugs as well as cosmetics are anti-cavity toothpastes (e.g., "fluoride" toothpastes), hormone creams, suntan or sunscreen preparations intended to protect against sunburn, antiperspirants that are also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos.
FDA/IAS Booklet 1992 Cosmetic Handbook |
List of our Cosmetics Analytical Services:
Below is a summary of a few of our cosmetic services:
Sunscreen-Suntan Products Testing
AAL, Inc. performs complete chemical testing on raw material and the finished product of sunscreen samples.
Procedure
The raw material analysis of sunscreen ingredients includes active and etcipient chemicals. AAL analyzes these ingredients according to USP monograph. Identification is done by:
|
|
- Visible spectrometry scans
|
Which locates such impurities as: |
o Lead |
o Mercury |
o Arsenics |
|
The Purity and Assay tests can also be completed by gas chromatography (GC) and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).
The finished products of over-the-counter sunscreen (i.e. SPF-4 to SPF-30+) active content analysis are performed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). We have validated testing procedures for sunscreen analysis of active chemicals for up to seven actives.

click for enlarged version
Zinc oxide and Titanium Dioxide utilizes modified FDA United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) method.
All sunscreen testing SPF products are performed in compliance to GMP requirements and results are often released within five to seven working days.
Permitted Sunscreen Active Ingredients (maximum concentrations)
Per FDA Sunscreen Monograph: |
| |
FDA Max Spec.
|
Method |
Aminobenzoic Acid |
15% |
HPLC |
Avobenzone |
3% |
HPLC / GC |
Cinoxate |
3% |
HPLC / GC |
Dioxybenzone |
3% |
HPLC |
Homosalate |
15% |
HPLC / GC |
Menthyl Anthranilate |
5% |
HPLC / GC |
Octocrylene |
10% |
HPLC |
Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamtate) |
7.5% |
HPLC / GC |
Octisalate (Octyl Salicylate) |
5% |
HPLC |
Oxybenzone |
6% |
HPLC |
Padimate O |
8% |
HPLC |
Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid |
4% |
HPLC |
Sulisobenzone |
10% |
HPLC |
Titanium Dioxide |
25% |
USP Titration |
Trolamine Salicylate |
12% |
HPLC |
Zinc Oxide |
25% |
USP Titration |
Back to top
Preservative and Additive Analysis
AAL's cosmetics scientists can analyze most of the additives (color, artificial sweetener, etc.) and preservative ingredients listed by USP monograph and FDA Cosmetics Handbook. Computerized automated HPLC and GC perform all chemical testing.
Chemical analysis is conducted under GMP requirements and complies with USP Chromatography system suitability requirements.
Preservative Testing
(BHT, BHQ, TBHQ, Parabens) |
Additive Testing
(Polysorbate, Surfactant) |
Active purity content |
Color additives FD&C red, yellow, blue, green |
Preservative efficacy or microbial 30-day challenges |
Formaldehyde content
(Japan Export Testing) |
Below is a list of the approved preservatives, color additives, and sweetener additives commonly used in cosmetics:
Partial List of the Approved Preservatives (USP/NF grade)
Commonly Used in Cosmetics:
| |
|
Method |
Butyl Parabens |
0.05-0.1% |
HPLC |
Diazolidinyl Urea |
0.1-0.3% |
HPLC |
DMDM Hydantoin |
0.2-0.6% |
HPLC |
Ethyl Paraben |
0.8-0.1% |
HPLC |
Imidazolidnyl Urea |
0.1-0.5% |
HPLC |
Isobutyl Paraben Sodium Methyl Paraben |
0.05-0.2% |
HPLC |
Kathon cG (Methylchloroisothiazolone, and Methyllisothiazolone) |
max 0.1% |
HPLC |
Methyl Paraben |
0.1-0.3% |
HPLC |
Methylisothiazolinone |
max 0.02% |
HPLC |
Phenoxy ethanol |
0.3-0.5% |
HPLC |
Propyl Paraben |
0.01-0.1%> |
HPLC |
Quaternium-15 (dowicil 200) |
max 0.2% |
Redox - Titration |
Sodium Benzoate |
|
HPLC |
Tricarnilide |
|
HPLC |
Triclosan |
.0.1-0.4% |
HPLC |
Sweetener Additives:
| |
Method |
Acesulfame |
HPLC |
Aspartame |
HPLC |
Mannitol |
HPLC / IC |
Saccharin |
HPLC |
Sorbitol |
HPLC / IC |
Xylitol |
HPLC / IC |
Lice and insectecide
| |
Method |
Pyrethin not more than 0.33% |
GC |
Piperonyl butoxide 0.33% |
GC |
Mosquito and Insect Repellent
| |
Method |
DEET and related toulamides |
HPLC |
Partial list of Color Additives
(Analyzed By Chromatographic HPLC and TLC Instrumentation):
| |
Method |
D&C green #5 |
TLC |
D&C red 22 |
TLC |
D&C red 28 |
TLC |
FD&C blue #1 |
TLC |
FD&C green #3 |
TLC |
FD&C green #6 |
TLC |
FD&C red #3 |
TLC |
FD&C red #4 |
TLC |
FD&C red 40 |
TLC |
FD&C yellow #10 |
TLC |
FD&C yellow #5 |
TLC |
List of Color Additives Not Permitted in Japan Export:
D&C Red No. 6 |
D&C Red No. 19 |
D&C Red No. 21 |
D&C Red No. 27 |
D&C Red No. 33 |
FD&C Red No. 40 |
D&C Orange No. 5 |
Back to top
Antioxidants:
Analysis
AAL's cosmetic lab has validated methods, such as computerized automated HPLC, for analysis of most of the antioxidant ingredients. AAL also has methods that analyze trace contents of antioxidants for the cleaning validation study.
Partial List of the Natural and Synthetic Antioxidants Commonly Used in Cosmetics:
| |
Method |
Ascorbic Acid as Vitamin C |
HPLC |
Butylated Hydroxy Anisole (BHA) |
HPLC |
Butylated Hydroxy Toluene (BHT) |
HPLC |
Coenzymes Q10 (co-Q10) |
HPLC |
Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Beta Carotene (Vitamin A) |
HPLC |
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) |
HPLC |
Trisodium and tetra sodium edetate (EDTA) |
HPLC |
Moisturizer, Emulsifier, Surfactant, Stabilizer
Partial List of the Chemicals Commonly Used as Moisturizers, Emulsifiers and Other Functions:
| |
Method |
Allantoin |
GC |
Anionic, Cationic, Non Ionic Surfactants |
GC |
Cetyl Alcohol (Fatty Alcohol) |
GC |
Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone |
FTIR / GC |
Glyceride, and Triglycerides |
GC |
Isopropyl Lanolate, Myristate, and Palmitate |
GC |
Lanolin and Lanolin Alcohols and Oils (skin and hair conditioners) |
GC |
Octyl Dodecanol-skin conditioner |
GC |
Oleic Acid (olive oil) |
GC |
Panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative)--hair conditioner (B5) |
GC |
Polysorbate or Tween 40, 60 and 80 |
Spectrometer / TLC |
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate |
GC |
Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol |
GC |
Back to Top
Skin Therapeutic Products
AAL analyzes chemicals that function to improve the skin such as acne creams, astringents, pore cleaners, anti pimple agents, anti-rash creams, and antibacterial lotions, all of which are sold as over-the-counter.
Analysis
AAL's cosmetic lab has validated methods for analysis of the active compounds of skin therapeutic products. The chromatographic methods for assay are utilized for automated HPLC and HPGC.
Partial List of the chemicals commonly used for skin therapy:
| |
Method |
Alpha Hydroxy |
HPLC |
Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Lactic Acid, and Glycolic Acid |
GC |
Allantoin |
HPLC |
Benzocaine |
HPLC |
Benzoyl Peroxide |
HPLC |
Camphor |
GC |
Capsaicin |
HPLC |
Hydrocortisone |
HPLC |
Ethyl Alcohol |
GC |
Hydroquinone |
HPLC |
Lidocaine |
HPLC |
Menthol |
GC |
Methyl Salicylate |
GC |
Promazine HCL |
HPLC |
Resorcinol |
HPLC |
Salicylic Acid |
HPLC |
Sulfur |
Barium Sulfate |
Tetracaine |
HPLC |
Thymol |
GC |
Zinc Oxide |
Titration |
Back to Top

Antidandruff Shampoo
Dandruff is due to small scales of dead skin forming on the scalp, and is a variation of the normal process of scalp growth and regeneration. It is also associated with scalp overgrowth by Malassezia Furfur yeast, and thought to be a mild form of seborrhoeic dermatitis.
Analysis
The active chemicals of raw material and finished products are analyzed by instrumentation such as HPLC, GC, and USP monograph.
Partial List of the chemicals commonly used:
| |
Method |
Clotrimazole |
HPLC |
Coal Tar |
HPLC |
Ketoconazole |
HPLC |
Menthol |
GC |
Salicylic Acid |
HPLC |
Selenium Sulfide |
Titration |
Zinc Pyrithion |
Titration / HPLC |
Antiperspirant/Deodorant
The antiperspirant active ingredients are analyzed according to USP method.
Partial list of the chemicals commonly used:
| |
Method |
Aluminum Chlorohydrate |
USP |
Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate |
USP |
Aluminum-Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY |
USP |
Sodium Bicarbonate |
USP / Titration |
Triclosan |
HPLC |
Dental Care Products Testing

AAL analyzes dental care products such as oral rinses, oral gel, dental bleach, anti-cavity toothpastes, and mouth sprays.
List of the oral care products that we test:
| |
Method |
Benzocaine |
HPLC |
Benzyl Alcohol |
GC / HPLC |
Calcium Peroxide |
Titration |
Carbamide Peroxide |
HPLC |
Cetyl Pyrithnium Chloride |
HPLC |
Chlorhexidine Gluconate |
HPLC |
Chlorine Dioxide |
Titration |
Sodium Fluoride |
ISE |
Sodium Monofluorophosphate |
ISE / Titration |
Hydrogen Peroxide |
USP Titration |
Zinc Chloride |
USP |
Zinc Gluconate |
USP |
Back to Top
OTC Antibacterial Antibiotic/Hygiene Care
| |
Method |
Benzalkonium Chloride |
HPLC |
Benzyl Alcohol |
GC / HPLC |
Butoconazole Nitrate |
HPLC |
Clotrimazole |
HPLC |
Micronazole Nitrate |
HPLC |
Neomycin Sulfate |
HPLC |
Polymyxin-B Sulfate |
HP |
Tolnaftate |
HPLC |
Triconazole |
HPLC |
Zinc Bacitracin |
HPLC |
Povidone-Iodine not more than 1% |
USP Titration |
Back to top |